95/100 – Jamie Goode, Wine Anorak
92/100 – Rebecca Gibb MW (Vinous)
94/100 – Bob Campbell MW
94/100 – Jamie Goode (2016 vintage)
“This is from Takaki Okada’s vineyard in the Brancott Valley, and the vines are dry grown. Clay-based top soils moving into silt loams after 20-30 cm. 12 months in 3 year old puncheons and then into a stainless tank where sulphur is added over 7 months settling prior to bottling. This is quite powerful and bold, with pear, peach and citrus fruit. There’s a lovely fruit intensity here with a touch of grapefruit and good acidity sitting under the bold fruit. Very fine with some nice toastiness in the background, and notes of meal and spice from well-judged oak. This is a really lovely Chardonnay with focus and depth, and it should age beautifully.” – Jamie Goode, Wine Anorak
“Hailing from a dry-grown site, this is a firm, structured Chardonnay with the racy, tangy acidity of Mendoza coming through and a creamy lick of malolactic. Uncompromising, with a salty character. Drink 2021-2026.” – Rebecca Gibb MW
“From a non-irrigated vineyard in the heart of the Brancott Valley. Rich, ripe and concentrated chardonnay with white peach, ginger, vanilla, lime, citrus and spicy oak flavours. A mellow, mouth-watering wine from a top vintage. Drink 2021 to 2027.” – Bob Campbell MW
Tasting Note: The Folium Vineyard is located in Marlborough’s Brancott Valley. Planted in 1996, this beautiful site has been owned and tended since 2011 by the inimitable Takaki Okada. Soil is Southern Valley Clay, around 1.5 m sitting on top of gravelly silt. Chardonnay from this dry-grown site has ripeness, precision and harmony, reflecting sensitive farming practices and its deep-rooted vines. BioGro certified. So typical of the Folium we know and love; pure but also an outlier. Citrus combining with crushed flowers and salty sea air. Maybe Takaki’s dry-farming providing these ethereal aromatics and then amplified to taste. Tannin but with freshness … hugely digestible.
Winemaking Note: Hand-harvested on 13th March 2019. Whole bunches were loaded and pressed slowly over 6 hours to a small stainless steel tank. No enzyme or sulphur additions were made during or post pressing, with a smaller, harder press fraction separated on taste and discarded. After 6 hours settling, the main press fraction was transferred with a high percentage of solids to two 500 litre seasoned French oak puncheons for fermentation. Primary fermentation took four days to naturally initiate and four weeks to complete. A full and natural malolactic fermentation finished December 2019, after which the young wine was topped and remained on original lees in puncheon, without stirring or sulphur, until April 2020. The puncheons were then racked together to tank and sulphured where they remained on lees for a further five months before sulphuring prior to bottling in October 2020. This wine was bottled without fining or filtration.
Region: Marlborough, New Zealand
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